![]() I was thinking how, its important to have an extensive set of tools when you work on this engine. I need to buy a good set of 1/4" metric standard depth, deep sockets and extensions. During this job as a matter of fact, I have been making notes as to what tools I need to buy. I was just thinking today how nice it would be to have longer wrenches. I have been wearing gloves more with this engine due to the tight quarters. I tend to buy Craftsman wrenches, especially since they re-designed their wrenches with rounded edges, they used to have sharp edges. That freed up a lot of room and I used a standard ratcheting wrench. I was afraid to move it until Kevin (KHE) said to mark it and remove it. i seem to find lots of other stuff to do.Īctually, once I got the Neutral Switch out of the way, there was plenty of room to get at the bolts. its easy to keep walking by the caddy without working on it. they had 1 nice set of mm wrenches but they were standard length and i think i would want longer. I did come up with several new cuss-word combinations while working on that crossover.ĭid you buy a flex ratchet wrench? i went to my local harbor freight and 9 out of 10 ratchets they sell are junk. I just marked the relative location of the components with a paint marker and a scribe and had no problems upon re-assembly. There is an adjustment procedure in the shop manual but it requires one of those expensive Kent-Moore tools which I didn't have. ![]() I had to remove the shift cables and the gear indicator switch. I don't think I have ever heard him complain, about the difficulty of any of these jobs! Kevin is the man, after his timesert job and now seeing this, my hat is off to him. KHE has not posted yet, and I know he removed his, and he did comment on how difficult it was, I am interesting in his thoughts. I of course will post my experience with this, let me know how you handle it. I am sort of relieved that someone else has seen the conditions and confirmed the difficulty I am having. I agree with the shifter module clearance, I am reluctant to pull it until I read the R&R to see if there is an adjustment on reinstall. i think i heard that it is easier to pull the motor and than take off the crossover. and depending on how long the bolts are, they might even hit the shifter module. i think the trans shifter module is in the way too. i am pulling my motor and took out the top bolts for the crossover and agree the rear lower bolts are bad. I discovered the plug after the fact as it was not mentioned in the service manual. Once that is unplugged, you should be able to move the wiring harness out of the way and access to the bolts should be a lot easier. Unplug the round, grey connector on the wiring harness - I believe it is near the ABS unit but it has been over a year since I did the job. I plan to buy a LONG 13MM 12 point flex-head ratcheting wrench to get at these bolts easier However, while I plan to move the main wiring harness back toward the firewall to get it out of the way of the two rear bolts for the crossover, I am NOT sure if there is enough room between the bolts and the tranny to get the wiring harness free, has anyone been able to free up the wiring harness all the way to the firewall. NOW I know why this job is so hard and so expensive. But that conduit is connected to everything including the front O2 sensor, three cooling fan relays, fuse modules, and possibly the oil pressure switch and oil level sensor. The main electrical wiring harness is in the way and I need to move it as KHE recommended. The hard to get at bolts are the two lower rear bolts near the firewall. I have access to six of the eight bolts and the remaining two are impossible to get at. ![]() Water pump cover containing the thermostat is out. The short coolant pipe out that connects to the water pump. The coolant crossover is a BEAR to get off. A good routine flush of your antifreeze coolant system helps us avoid this problem.OK, I am stumped. Eventually, the un-flushed coolant/debris mixture, in your radiator, turns into a brown sludge that can clog vital parts in your radiator hose and other parts of your engine, leading to engine overheating. Deteriorated coolant becomes acidic and eats away at metal cooling system components in your radiator and other parts of the engine. If you’ve got antifreeze gunk build-up in your radiator or radiator hose, your car is long overdue for a coolant flush. That’s why you should have your coolant flushed per the recommended service schedule. But you don’t want to let it get to that point. In some cases, if the coolant goes long enough without service, it will start to darken and become brownish in color. Make sure to flush your antifreeze coolant at the time and mileage recommended by the automaker. Don’t wait until your coolant is discolored and funky looking.
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